Part 1 can be found here.
Jalal's helmet cam action stills can be found here.
Week 2 (Switzerland / Austria / Germany / Italy): Map
We all left Chamonix on a high, after experiencing perfect weather and views that left us breathless. It had been raining there for days, cleared up on our stay, with the rain returning after we left. The good luck that was with us made for a great early experience to our tour and stayed with us till the end. So many things could have gone wrong, but didn't, and we were all thankful for that.
Leaving, Chamonix, we were on our way in to Switzerland via the beautiful Klausen Pass. Here we take our first break.
This beautiful lake made for the perfect rest stop.
Cloudy but no rain.
And to take photos of course.
The water colour turns so blue with the sun out.
The surrounding mountains make for a dramatic back drop.
Further on, we pull off the main road and in to a pretty little village for lunch, where we fuelled up and had lunch at this bakery.
Nearby, another picturesque lake with those perfect green rolling hills and traditional homes in the background.
This is how Switzerland greets you, approaching the Klausen Pass.
Cathy and I have ridden the Klausen Pass on our previous tour, but we were doing it in the opposite direction this time.
More unforgettable scenery. It had been raining before we arrived in the area, enough to get many waterfalls flowing.
We had our wets on, which kept the rain away.
At the top. Not the highest pass we rode but respectable at almost 2000 metres.
Unfortunately the cafe at the top was closed.
Looking down to the tiny village of Urnerboden where we were to spend the night at the Klausen Ranch.
You know you're up high when you're amongst the clouds.
Here we arrive, at the Klausen Ranch. We had an unscheduled break here two years ago, due to a storm closing the pass for an hour or so. That day, I vowed we would return and spend the night at the bike friendly ranch. It turned out to be very memorable and well worth the effort.
It doesn't take long for the girls to find the bull. I must say that Nicky got a bit closer than the others.
A very proud bull indeed.
The ranch, is what we would call a pub in Australia, and stands proudly in one of the most beautiful places on our Earth.
Perfect roads in a stunning area.
This view to wake up to, just across the road.
And this.
Looking toward the village, just a short distance away.
The interior is as colourful as Hans, the owner. Quite a character, who looked up photos from the past, to show that Cathy had indeed visited previously.
We left these little Koalas everywhere we stayed, as a token of our appreciation for our stay.
The Klause Ranch got two.
Kel and Mop enjoying the ambiance of the pub.
Cathy and I enjoying the ride of a lifetime.
Jim and Nicky, loving it.
And of course Mick and Belinda, taking it all in.
Jalal, pleasantly surprised when Hans serves up complimentary after dinner desert drinks which were home made and soooo nice.
This was a beautiful experience in itself and one of my most memorable of the whole tour.
We took a short walk toward the village before breakfast was served by our host, who also served us dinner and happens to be a chef and did some work in the NSW snow fields.
This little cable cart transports supplies up to farm houses, with out road access, and also urns of milk back down to the village.
This has to be Switzerland and it's best.
I couldn't get enough of this area and felt on such a high.
Great scenery in every direction.
Yes plenty of cows about and grade 4 incline on the road both ways.
Cathy in her element, walking in such wonderful surroundings.
Two days after we left the ranch, we learnt that it snowed and closed the pass. Another example of our luck during the tour. If the pass had closed while we were there, we would have had a headache on our hands.
After breakfast, it was time to pack the bikes and move on, heading through to Germany, via Austria. Here we find a great recreational park, complete with its own beer garden, to have lunch. Our first meal in Germany.
The bikes were never too far away, where ever we stopped.
Reading menus were always a challenge if they weren't available in English, but we always got by somehow.
Well fed as usual. No food shortage on our tour.
This was our accomodation for our two nights in Germany, south of Munich. A pension is another word for a guest house, where the owners also live on site and are very common in Europe. This sort of accomodation comes highly recommended as you not only get a fantastic place to stay, but get to meet the wonderful owners who also cook you breakfast each morning.
The wonderful couple who run this pension were very friendly and extremely helpful, who also spoke very good English. The rooms were large, comfortable and very clean. We were made to feel very welcome.
That evening we met up with Kel and Mop and recommended they try the Augustiner Pub for dinner with us. This is Mop's encounter with and authentic German pork knuckle meal.
The next day was our off day, and spent it as a tourist day in the wonderful city of Munich. Here we catch the train which was a pleasant walk from the pension.
We arrive in Marian Platz just in time for our friends to witness the Glockenspiel sound off at midday.
These hand carved characters move around as the bells chime, just like clock work.
More incredible architecture.
Some of the corner pieces look like people I know.
The dragon appears to be attacking the building.
Then this gentleman with his pet crow who happens to use his shoulders as it's own personal toilet.
As we have done before, we climbed the steeple to St Paul's cathedral for just $2 Euro.
The view is spectacular from so high.
The others thought so too.
And again, we visit the markets nearby.
Well in to Spring and the nursery stalls in full swing.
So many varieties of cheese.
These hand carved ornaments would look great in any garden.
I enjoyed a few glasses of fantastic German Riesling at this wine bar and it was good as I remembered.
It didn't take long to find the beer garden at centre of the market.
Unbeatable Bavarian social atmosphere.
I enjoyed a couple of small tubs of olives with my wine.
As we found in Spain, cherries the size of small plums.
Again, it's all to do with presentation.
Cathy on her own seek and destroy mission.
Once again, a patisserie wins her choice.
After lunch, we go for a wander about town to appreciate the place on foot.
Another clock tower to climb. We missed that one.
This sign to another brauhaus (pub).
This vine due for a trim I'd say.
We find ourselves back at the Glockenspiel.
And find this in through the main doors.
Then discover that you can explore the inside, free of charge.
Even more beautiful inside, with it's perfect architecture.
And numerous stain glassed windows.
Every European city has it's fountains.
Meanwhile, back at the beer garden, the boys enjoy a stein or two.
Kelly grabs hold of this gentleman in traditional dress for a quick photo.
That evening, the rest of the group also joined us at the Augustiner Brewery for a group dinner.
Cool drinks and ......
Pork knuckles all round.
The next morning, it was time to leave Germany via Austria, and tackle the Jaufen Pass.
Here we find another pleasant spot for a break. This time in Austria.
While we were travelling on the old road, the new motorway towered above us.
And went on for ever it seems.
These beautiful castles are very common in Europe, but always amazing to see.
Here we find the first sign to the Jaufen. Our third major pass for the tour.
Last time Cathy and I rode this pass, it was very foggy and couldn't see the scenery it had to offer.
On this occasion the sun was out to greet us.
These small chapels are also very common around the Alps.
Simply beautiful to see another perfect biking road.
Jalal rode ahead and took this shot of us, thanks mate.
The peak of another 2000 meter pass.
Another celebratory group photo. We were having the time of our lives at this point.
And we still avoided the rain, although it came close.
We then arrive to our next destination. Meran / Merano. A city shared by Italy and Austria.
Another great hotel in a good location.
Our room with it's electronically controlled sun roof.
And a beautiful church just next door.
A pleasant stroll reveals another picturesque European city.
With it's own mountain fed river.
Gelato time!
Always opportunity to shop in places like this.
The European Cup was on at this time and this little fella was wearing his colours with pride.
More buildings decorated with vines.
We always enjoyed seeing these three wheelers. This was a vendor packing away for the day.
And this one motoring along madly.
After our one night stay in Meran, it was time to move on, deeper in to Northern Italy. Along the way we find another beautiful church to admire.
All so grand inside.
Today was one of the key days of our tour as were to tackle the mighty Stelvio Pass. We couldn't ride the Stelvio on our last trip due to bad weather. The Stelvio is rated as one of the ten most dangerous roads in the world and we did not need bad weather in the mix to add to that.
When we were getting close, I pulled the group over for one last rest before we took on the Stelvio.
Looking up at the peaks in the distance, we just knew it was up there somewhere.
Jalal once again provided these shots from his helmet cam, as we climbed the Stelvio.
The Stelvio simply took all the concentration and focus we had. I had intended to go back down it again and ride back up but after completing it just once, I decided that was enough and was grateful we all did it safely and what a feeling that was.
Kilometer after kilometer of 5km/hr blind cut backs with a steep ascent thrown in just for fun, it was a real sense of accomplishment at this point. That's a small section of it zig zagging down behind us.
A close up of a section close to the top which is 2800 meters high. It sends a chill down my spine just seeing this photo again.
As you'd expect, breathtaking views all around.
We were very high.
Yes we were number one after this climb.
The compulsory group victory shot.
At the top, we found a few stores and kiosks which helped us with celebratory drinks and lunch. We bought memoirs of our accomplishment in the form of t-shirts, hats, stickers and badges. We weren't going to forget this one in a hurry.
This small fort looked over it all.
You guessed it, the sun came out, as if to congratulate us. Here you can see how popular the Stelvio is amongst motorcyclists.
Cathy returning from her seek and destroy, Stelvio mission.
Letting our heart rate return to normal.
I celebrated with a cold beer.
The regions own brand at that.
This time over the southern side, which was so picturesque and relaxed.
It seemed it was the tamer side of the Stelvio Pass.
But the scenery slapped us in the face.
The pass snaking its way down below.
So stunning.
Parked up and relaxed on our descent.
It was to be a day of emotional ups and downs. We had just accomplished the highest pass of our tour and now we rode in to one of the most beautiful places on Earth, that is Lake Como, Italy. There are many villages on the banks of Lake Como, however, we chose to spend two nights in Mennagio.
Here, Cathy stands out the front of the apartment we stayed at for two nights.
This scene just outside the apartment.
And a short 10 minute walk to the lake.
You can see that the lake sits among the mountains. Actually just over those mountains, is Switzerland.
Surprise surprise, we find another bakery. Italian this time.
On our off day, we chose to take a ride around Lake Como - (Map). We soon realised how enormous it actually is. Although it was cloudy, you guessed it, no rain until we got back to the apartment and then it poured.
I had spotted a pizzeria / pasta bar on google maps and led the group there for lunch, but unfortunately it was closed
So we doubled back a couple of minutes and found this one.
Who gave us our very own party room.
With this view across the road.
Check out those mountains towering over the lake.
Bellagio is lovely with its manicured gardens.
But the storm clouds were coming.
Fishermen all around the lake were catching "white fish".
Nicky and Cathy enjoying the view across Lake Como.
There we are with our wets on, expecting rain.
All four girls having a great time.
Waiting in line for the ferry.
The car ferry on its way across.
The ferry ride was just another experience in itself.
Once we got back to the other side, it began to rain, then it absolutely poured and again through the night. I was disheartened that we didn't get to see Lake Como in all its beauty in the sunshine, but we were pleasantly surprised the next morning, on our way south, back in to France.
Week 3 (Italy / France / Spain): Map
Today, sadly we said good bye to Nicky and Jim who returned their bike in Como and flew home from Milan due to work commitments. As you can see though, the weather Gods came out to play and gave us clear blue skies so that we could see Lake Como in its true glory.
We rode for just 20 minutes or so until I thought to pull over and enjoy breakfast, in this beautiful place, together.
This cafeteria across from the lake did the job perfectly.
The lake at it's best, basking in the sunshine.
The village looks crowded but works so well.
Another village on the banks of the lake in the distance with a water fall crashing in to the lake.
The city of Como pictured from across the lake, on our way out.
This statue guards over a small harbour.
More beautiful Lake Como.
Today was essentially a transport day, taking us well away from the Alps, toward the Mediterranean coast. Here, we stop for lunch in Turin which turned out to be a little disappointing if I'm honest. Turin seemed to be a little unloved and uncared for compared to what we were used to seeing on the tour.
The homeless were forced to sleep on park benches.
Hang on, Mop, is that you?
We parked the bikes at the edge of a large park within view of a bar where we sat for lunch.
The park itself was quite pleasant.
This statue stood proudly in its place. Shame that some moron felt it necessary to add graffiti to it.
And this in the centre.
After quite an ordinary ride, we eventually arrive in Carmagnola, Italy. Cathy and I get changed and walk in to town for a look see. Another pleasant rural town with numerous churches.
Although it was smaller, very nice inside.
This church, odd shaped.
But gorgeous inside.
With many stone carvings within it.
Yet another church. Four in all, within a kilometre of each other.
This one was probably the most grand.
Down town Carmagnola.
Church number four.
This one looked the oldest.
One of the town's statues.
The row of buildings housing very posh stores.
Today's ride took us across the border, back in to France, leaving Italy behind.
This cafe our choice for a break before heading over the eastern end of the Pyrenees mountains and down to the Mediterranean.
Well worth the visit and totally unplanned.
The village itself is tiny but so fascinating.
Murals on many of the walls, all depicting scenes from the story of Pinocchio.
Wood carved miniatures for sale in shop windows.
And this life size carving decorated the foot path.
And the church's steeple standing proudly as if to watch over the town.
Half past ten, which means we were on the road for a couple of hours or so. We regularly departed our accommodations at 8:00 am or there about.
Who says Cathy doesn't have a sense of humour?
Leaving Italy, we climb a pass only to be delayed at the border due to road works. The sign shows we have 17 minutes to wait.
Over the other side, police again diverted traffic up and over another mountain pass which was a god send. This road was excellent to ride and took us through another gorge, much like one we rode in our first week.
Try to imagine standing here with only the sound of the river below filling your ears.
And rarely a car in sight.
Continuing along, we start to descend to the coast, and take a break for lunch at this restaurant.
Looking back up the road.
Relaxing in the sun shine.
Approaching Monaco, we stop for a few photos.
The colour of the Mediterranean is unmistakable with Monaco in the back ground..
Many homes of the well to do dotted the shore.
Further on we approach the city of Nice, looking beautiful by the water.
We reach our destination of St Raphael, Frejus in the afternoon. As usual Cathy and I slipped our walking shoes on and go for a walk in to town. This arch forms part of a huge arched wall that surrounds the entire historic section of the town.
Another larger section where the arch has collapsed.
This town was another well kept place and a pleasure to explore.
Another beautiful old church.
As with most European towns, numerous cafes and restaurants lined its plaza.
Typical narrow streets.
Another fine statue.
Dedicated to this fellow who happened to be a Roman General.
We eventually choose this restaurant for dinner.
Where we finally found jumbo sized snails on the menu, which we shared as entree.
Duck and fish as mains. Great choices in France.
After our one night visit, it was time to head for Arles.
Soon after heading off we find ourselves riding along the shores of the Mediterranean.
The sea looked perfect in the morning and not a breath of wind.
And then were three.
Here we take a morning tea break in Saint Tropez. This is the harbour.
Such a tourist hub, yet it was very quiet being mid morning.
Further along, we find this seaside park for our break and an opportunity for some of the group to take a swim.
Mick and Kelly admiring the clear water.
Hi Kel.
Quite a nice beach.
The local life guard.
Mop just finishing a marathon swim.
Bel and Kel soon after.
Mick eventually hopped in.
For lunch we took a break in Toulon.
Another lovely place although we couldn't spend much time here due to the amount of kilomometres still to complete for the day.
Enjoying lunch in the shade.
We made it to the beautiful town of Arles, late afternoon. This was another two night stay in a lovely farm style, french home on the edge of town.
Enjoying the relaxing atmosphere under the porch.
Full use of the family's kitchen.
The first morning, Cathy and I walked in to town for breakfast before carrying on to do the touristy thing.
You guessed it. Another perfect European bakery.
This is a section of the wall that surrounds the historical, Roman centre of Arles.
This memorial in respect for those that lost their lives in World Wars I and II.
This tranquil garden sits just inside the citadel walls.
Two elderly gentlemen enjoy feeding the birds in the sunshine.
This amphitheatre, the first of two major ancient Roman buildings in the city,
A pity those stage lights were there but it is still used regularly for shows and other community events.
Sections of columns lay on the ground.
This information board shows the two structures in close proximity to each other.
We then walked on to the Roman theatre.
This structure was in fantastic repair and well worth the visit.
Standing on the steps to the main entry to the theatre.
Theatres, such as this, were built by the Romans all over Europe and were used for Gladiator competition, with the largest (the Colosseum) in Rome. This one in Arles is still used today. In fact they were advertising an upcoming bull fight event. We were in southern France but there was a distinct Spanish influence.
Entry in, was $8 Euro.
If only these tunnels could talk of their history.
When you look closely, you notice the hundreds of thousands of bricks that make up the place.
These hallways circumnavigated the structure on three levels.
This was near the top.
Considering the lack of machinery in the day, these huge marvels astound me and can't help but wonder how much effort and labour it took to erect these things.
Still standing strong.
Looking down to the village below.
Ancient history within history. Throughout the theatre's limestone building blocks, were fossilized shells as we have seen in many temples etc in Malta.
The old city nearest to the theatre was very pleasant.
There was a bath of some description at the base of this but I couldn't make out what it's purpose was.
Another significant section of the old wall surrounding the city.
A high rise apartment for pigeons.
In another area, a monument stands in front of a government building.
With its own small fountain.
He looks a little bothered don't you think?
These scooters are perfect to get around in towns such as this.
The local church in town.
More fantastic stone carvings.
Inside also.
Lots of gold leaf about, framing various paintings.
Just out side in the plaza, the local kids play soccer after school. Good to see they don't have their heads buried in laptops and games.
We were now nearing the end of our tour with the city of Perpignan, France being our final night before returning the bikes in Barcelona.
One last gorgeous french town.
Again, fortified by a great wall.
Shops lined the narrow streets.
One last church ,we visited.
And its distinct steeple.
This eerie statue lay in one of the chapels.
No expense spared here.
We never get tired of the narrow lane ways and the bars and cafes within them. It's great just to sit with a drink and watch people walk by.
The local cat thinks so too. He even purred in French.
The scenery along the river was perfect and a pleasure to walk along.
There was a music festival on this day all over France it seemed. Many groups from all over the world were performing on the streets. This Brazilian group were excellent with the drums.
Quite a nice atmosphere.
A Peugeot electric scooter ????
Back in the main plaza, the children were kept amused busting huge bubbles.
While their parents looked on over a glass of wine and chatter.
My one and only stein sized beer for the trip. Strangely enough in France and not Germany.
And even stranger, the best tapas meal we had was here and not Spain. Go figure.
The next morning presented us with our final day of the tour. We had mixed emotions because it was quite sad that it was all coming to an end but we were all quite tired and started to miss home. After some discussion, I discarded my final map for the trip and took the group back in to the Pyrenees Mountains for one last visit before descending in to Barcelona. By doing this, we got to enjoy one last mountain pass and rural spanish villages before we returned the bikes.
This place was our choice for coffee in the morning.
A crystal clear stream ran through the town.
The garden adjoining the church wall.
This magnificent maze off to the side.
What looked like a sun dial on the wall of the church.
On our last evening in Barcelona, it happened to be the feast of St Joan and crackers were being let off all over the place. We befriended this group of boys who led us to a place we could buy our own supply of bungers.
Waiting in line to buy our supply.
This young fella spoke good English and was a great translator.
Returning with our stash of explosives and very proud of ourselves.
These ones were extremely loud.
We gave them to the boys to light on our behalf and enjoy with us.
Here the boys partly buried the large bungers in a pot plant.
With this result. No one seemed to mind.
Our little Spanish mates that gave us a memorable send off.
Looking out the window of our hotel, I take a photo of our final Barcelona sunset.
This truly was the trip of a lifetime for Cathy and I. We saw the best that Europe had to offer from the seat of a motorcycle, through fantastic roads that took us through vineyards, mountains, rural villages and larger towns. The tour was almost 18 months in the planning, but it was well worth the time. Apart from that, we also had alot of luck on our side. Out of 22 days bike hire, we had just one morning of rain, all our accomodation was waiting for us as arranged, and we had no major incidents. It's not until you experience something like this, that you suddenly realise how many things can go wrong. Fortunately for our group, everything was near perfect and for that reason, I wouldn't dare push my luck and attempt it again, especially when you have others counting on you making the right decisions.
